Monthly Archives: December 2014
Zeroing Your Rifle Scope
Having a rifle is cool and all but at some point you’re going to want to shoot it. What’s more, you’re going to want to shoot it a long distance. Most importantly, you’re going to want to hit what you’re aiming at. It’s kind of the point, really. Sadly, just slapping a scope on to your rifle isn’t going to suffice. At the moment, I’m not aware of any self adjusting rifle scopes. Before you can go shooting, you need to tell your scope where the bullet path is going to be. This is called “zeroing the rifle”.
Before we go any further, you might notice that I mention the 100 yards distance a lot. This is pretty much the standard sighting distance for all scopes. Even if you’re eventually going to reach out and touch 1000 yards, you’re still going to zero at 100. Why? Because MOA is calculated based off the 100 yard distance.
As far as zeroing goes, there’s two or three ways to accomplish this task. First and foremost, you can just go to the range, but the rifle into a bench rest (this is important) then aim at some paper about 100 yards away. Shoot three rounds then see where they hit. Then you just adjust the scope’s reticle to the center of where the shots hit…provided they hit paper. If not, you’re going to need to estimate, adjust the scope and try again. This method often takes a lot of back and forth but it gets the job done with nothing more than your ammo and a rifle stand. The three round shot is important to get the average spread of your rifle. If you go one shot at a time per adjustment, you’re going to be forever chasing that zero. Also, this method kind of goes to crap if it’s windy or hot out. Those things will affect your rifle in significant ways.
If you don’t mind spending a bit for some extra tools, get yourself an optical boresighter. This is a device that fits into the barrel of your gun and produces an image of a grid into your rifle’s sight. All you have to do at this point is adjust the reticle so that it lines up with the center grid lines and your rifle is now zeroed for 100 yards. These cost around $30-$50 depending on where you get them but, if you swap your scopes or just shoot often, having this to be able to return you to a baseline at any given moment is worth it. It takes less than a minute to get your scope ready to go.
Finally, the inbetween of these two methods is a laser boresighter. These are mostly for use with pistols but in a pinch they can help you find that zero on your scope. Keep in mind, I’ve seen numerous laser boresighters that claim they can be used with rifles but I’ve tested quite a few and I’ve yet to find one that’s really useable beyond 25 yards. This is partially because the cheap little lasers they use in the boresighters spread quite a lot over short distances. Not only that, but in any kind of sunlight they’re almost impossible to see. The green ones, while a bit more expensive, are better when zeroing at outdoor ranges. With that in mind, the way I use a laser boresighter for a rifle is to zero it at the 25 yard range. This will pretty much ensure that you’ll hit the paper at the 100 yard range when you start using the first method.
Now that your rifle is zeroed, you have a good starting point for any scope adjustments for bullet drop and windage. Get out there and practice!
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Thinking like a Criminal: Holiday Security Tips
Santa enters via the chimney. If someone is kicking in a door or smashing a window, it ain’t Santa. Might be the Krampus, mind you, but I still wouldn’t want him in my house. Is it any wonder why home invasions, robberies, and theft go up during the holidays? People are getting all kinds of new things. There’s packages left on door stops. There’s cards in the mailbox filled with cash. It’s easy pickings for your average criminal. It’s also amazing how stupefyingly naive the average person gets during this time of year. As I drive around, I am awestruck by how some people are just opening themselves up for trouble. Most might as well leave their door unlocked with a big neon sign saying “HEY! COME ON IN! i’VE GOT SOME AWESOME STUFF FOR YOU TO STEAL!”
First off, I see a lot of people who integrate their tree into their outside decorations. They put it and the presents right by a big front window with the curtains open. Now, I admit it’s very difficult to tell what’s in a wrapped present. There are some obvious ones, however. Giant, thin 40+ rectangle? Probably a flat screen. Three inch by three inch tiny box? Jewelry. If you don’t think the people who would break in and grab presents don’t have a good idea what box sizes game systems and such come in you’re fooling yourself.
Regardless, with that tree right by the window, it’s a quick smash and grab. Two or three people could empty it out far faster than you would think. Depending on the layout of your house, they could have most of your stuff grabbed and be peeling out of your yard by the time you even make it to the room with the tree.
Easiest solution here: don’t decorate like that! Keep the presents and the tree out of easy sight. I wouldn’t even recommend putting the presents under the tree until the last minute.
Speaking of decorations, having a timer on your outside lights goes a surprisingly long way. You see, if you turn out your lights manually whenever you go to bed, you’re announcing to the world that your guard is down. Having a timer makes it harder to tell when everyone in your house has gone to sleep. Ideally, if you don’t mind the extra electric bill, leaving them on all night is the way to go. It illuminates your yard and house far better and would make it easier for a passerby to notice something suspicious.
If you want to send money to someone, try not to make it an obvious Christmas card. I’ll admit, I haven’t quite figured that one out yet. I’m open to suggestions in the comments below or on Facebook. Heck, there’s always Bitcoin if you want to send cash! As far as packages on your doorstop, the only way to avoid that one is to either be home when they’re delivered by opting for Saturday delivery or opting to pick up the packages yourself from your local distribution center. You can ask UPS and FedEx to hold your shipments at their offices and then you can just go get them from there. Now, that might now be entirely feasable depending on your location but it’s still an option, especially if you’re getting a high dollar item delivered. The other option is to have a trusted neighbor grab them off your doorstep for you.
One other thing I’m seeing is crooks using social media to their advantage. It doesn’t matter how locked down your Facebook profile is, don’t talk about the big trip you’re planning any more than you have to. Your immediate friends might be trustworthy. What about your friends’ friends? You post “going up to my family in [NextStateOver] for a week.” All your friends now know that you’ll be going out of town. Then, one of your friends is talking to a less than reputable friend. The person you don’t know is talking about how they wish they could go out of town. Your friend mentions “I know what you mean. A bunch of my friends like [X], [Y], and [YOU] will be gone for a week.” Less-than-reputable now knows 3 people whose houses will be empty. Think it’s a stretch? A good friend of mine had the exact same scenario happen earlier this year. We’re all excited (or dreading) our holiday travels but this time of year is the worst time to be letting the world know about them.
Finally, and I say this every year: don’t just put your boxes out by the curb on trash day. Cut them up and put them in trash bags or just take them to the dump or a recycling center yourself. Otherwise, you’re telling everyone who passes by what brand new, shiny and valuable items are sitting in your house. As a bonus, your also telling people that they work because if you had to return them, you probably wouldn’t be throwing out the boxes. I tell everyone I know. I tell neighbors (at least the ones I like). I will still see a neighborhood full of boxes the day after Christmas. I’m thinking of making some flyers up for next year.
Stay safe, stay secure, and have a Merry Christmas (or Hanukkah) and a happy New Year.
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Free For All Friday 12-19-2014: Last resort for holsters…
This is it. The last FFAF before Christmas. It’s also my wedding anniversary. Everyone send your congrats and/or condolences to Mrs. Noob. She’s been legally required to put up with me for 3 years now. She put up with me voluntarily for quite a few years before that, mind you.
We only have one question this week so I’ll make this brief because wife aggro…
I have not been able to find an ankle holster for my Derringer, how hard would it be to make one and any suggestions on how to do it. -Fred S.
I remember you and I talked about ankle holsters a couple of FFAFs ago. I’m genuinely not surprised to find out you’ve had some trouble finding a derringer ankle holster in stores because of their “specialty item” status. That really only leaves the custom option. The good news is, building a holster is easy in and of itself. The bad news is that building a good holster takes a great deal of practice. Far be it from me to turn away someone from a potential new hobby, I think it would be a better idea to seek out a local custom holster shop. You’re in Northeast Florida so the good news is there’s a metric ton of custom holster companies in that area. One of those are my good buddies at Dragon Holsters. Stop by their shop in Orange Park and bring your Derringer. They’ll fit you with a holster that’s not only custom shaped to your gun but probably to your ankle as well.
For those who are having a similar problem, there are custom kydex shops all over the country. Give them your support. Local companies appreciate it.
Thanks for the questions!
So do you have a question burning in your mind? We answer them every Friday so send them in! It doesn’t matter what it is, as long as it’s arguably gun related we want to hear it! Head over to our Facebook or Twitter or Contact Page and send them in. See you next Friday!
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Product Review: Solario Solar Phone Charger
I don’t know about you, but I typically get my Christmas shopping done towards the beginning of December. Then I sit around all smug about it like “yep, all done. You all enjoy the crowds and stuff.” Usually around the 15th of the month I wake up in the middle of the night in a cold sweat with the realization of “OH, CRAP! I FORGOT THE STOCKING STUFFERS!” Fortunately they’re usually small, easy to find items but still. This year, I’ve got a great stocking stuffer idea for you!
If you have a friend or family member that likes to go outdoors a lot…which considering the typical demographic of this blog is a pretty safe bet…there’s always a fear of “what if my cell phone/tablet/gps/e-reader/USB Powered blender battery goes dead?” At least I assume so. I don’t go outdoors much. There’s this big yellow thing that hangs in the sky that scares me to no end. Even then, as a hardcore geek, I am at the mercy of my battery life. The Solario charger fixes that problem! It really combines a handful of items into one awesome package.
First off, it has an internal battery that you can use to charge your device’s battery. In my testing, it took my iPhone from nearly dead to around 94% in about 2 hours. This internal battery can be charged either by plugging it into a USB power outlet (like on your computer or your phone’s charger) or the uber awesome way of just leaving it in the sun for a bit. With good, clear exposure to the sun, it only takes a couple hours to recharge its internal battery.
It comes with a handful of USB cables and adaptors which allows you to charge any USB based device with it. You don’t have to use the cables provided, mind you. All the ports are standard so you can use your own cables with it as well.
The charger also comes with a small carabiner that allows you to hang it off your backpack so it can recharge while on the go. The device is very rugged with rubber bumpers on the sides so it can get knocked around. It’s also weatherproof and the USB ports are sealed so that liquid and grime are kept away.
Finally, it also has a built in LED flashlight which can come in handy in a pinch. At the very least, you can always use it to make a “solar powered flashlight” joke.
All in all, I love this thing and I can’t recommend it enough. If you’re looking for a stocking stuffer or just a gift for the company Christmas party, you can’t go wrong with this.
You can buy the Solario Solar Charger
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Free For All Friday 12-12-2014: AR Scopes, Revolvers, and more!
We’ve got a lot of questions this week so I’m going to skip my usual rambling opening and go right into it!
Total noob question: understanding how to pick the correct scope for an AR-15 – Brett S.
It comes down to a couple of things. If you’re planning on using your AR more like a rifle with long range shots exclusively and you’re not really into the whole “tactical” thing, a traditional rifle scope is your best option. I’d still throw on a couple of angle mounted iron sights just in case. If, instead, you want the gun for self defense and close quarters/dynamic targets will be what you’re aiming at then a red dot sight is what you should be looking through. In this case, I’d also recommend some iron sights but, depending on the red dot you choose, you might be able to co-witness them. Finally, there is an intermediate kind of sight if you might be bouncing a bit between both uses. That would be the ACOG sight. It’s kind of a Goldilocks thing that can handle close range stuff well along with things that are a bit farther out. I wouldn’t use an ACOG if you’re looking beyond 100 yards but that’s just me. I know people that can hit 500 yards and beyond with iron sights but for us mortals, you’re going to want to go with the sight/scope that most fits your desired use.
I just saw (I’m a newbie, too) that the Taurus Judge revolver can shoot .410 shotgun shells. I’ve fired a shotgun, and they’ve got quite a kick. What’s it like shooting shotgun shells from a revolver? Is it even practical? And what applications would it have? I mean, why would you want to, other than to speed up your carpal tunnel progress. – Mike H.
One one hand, the .410 is kind of the .22LR of the shotgun world. It’s super light recoiling and light-ish on power, relatively speaking. It’s still a freaking shotgun shell, however. Saying a shotgun shell has “light recoil” is like saying “compared to a sledge hammer, a ball-peen hammer to the skull only hurts a little”. When you’re shooting a shotgun shell from a shotgun, you have the weight of the gun and many other factors helping tame that recoil a bit. Throw that shotgun shell into a comparatively light pistol frame and you’re really going to know when you’ve fired that gun. The recoil is…lively…to say the least.
From a practical standpoint, it’s really not. Again, you have to keep in mind that it’s still a gun and it’s still going to do the job it needs to do. It’s not a bad gun either. There are just other options available that I would recommend over it, especially when it comes to first guns and such. One of the biggest problems I have with it is the fact that a .410 (and any other round meant for a long barreled gun **cough** .22LR **cough**) needs a long barrel to get up to ideal speed. The moment it leaves the barrel is starts slowing down. With the snubnose of the Judge, it loses a great deal of its lethality. The only option is to use a slightly longer barrel which makes it harder to carry or pump some more powder into the shell which doesn’t help the recoil.
I don’t want to knock the gun because I love it when companies think outside of the box but if it were it my money, I’d spend it on a traditional revolver or a semi-auto for your self defense weapon.
Dry fire systems and techniques -Kurt S.
Personally, I adore the LaserLyte training options. I have spent a great deal of time using mine and I have noticed a big difference when I actually go to the range as a result. I cannot recommend them enough. As far as technique, we’ve got an in-depth guide coming up but the short of it is: practice your dry fire exactly as you would practice at the range.
Hey Noob!, I know you are not a fan of carrying revolvers. I understand all the reasons why. However, if someone decided to carry one anyway, do know of a holster that would work well? for perhaps a .38 special or a .357. Thanks as always! -Skylar R.
Before I get the revolver fan club descending upon me with torches and pitchforks, let me just say: I’ve got no problems with revolvers and I have recommended them to many people. I just personally prefer small semi-auto pistols for my own carry. I have lots of friends that are revolvers. My cousin is a revolver. I even dated a revolver in college.
As far as holsters go, you can’t go wrong with the traditional leather style. Galco makes some of the best leather holsters and they have them styled for a wide variety of guns. If you’re wanting a bit more modern material, Dragon Holsters, Crossbreed and many others make some incredible Kydex/leather combos.
Better first hand gun, a Glock .45 or M&P Shield -Paolo C.
One of my big rules of thumb is to never have a carry gun as your first gun. Even a great one like the Shield takes a toll on your hands at the range. That means people typically won’t practice with them as much so they don’t wind up getting the fundamentals they need. So based off that, I would personally go with the Glock for your first handgun. You’ll be able to spend far more time practicing with it and, once you have the techniques down pat, you can get the Shield for your daily carry.
From experience, however, it’s not that difficult to use the Glock as a daily carry either. You’d be surprised how easy it is to carry a full sized pistol.
Thanks for the questions!
So do you have a question burning in your mind? We answer them every Friday so send them in! It doesn’t matter what it is, as long as it’s arguably gun related we want to hear it! Head over to our Facebook or Twitter or Contact Page and send them in. See you next Friday!
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Free For All Friday 12-5-2014: Shooting Low and Flame Wars…
When I launched this site three years ago, it went live with a handful of guides and some articles that, in looking back, make me cringe a bit to read. After about three months…and I don’t remember exactly which article it was…. after I posted it I had the following thought: “I am now completely out of ideas.” Then, the next week, I posted another article and again I said “That’s the last one I’m going to be able to write. I have no more ideas.” For three years I’ve been panicking and telling myself that every time I post an article. My biggest fear at the moment is that some day, I’ll be right.
Thank goodness for Free For All Friday!
I just got back from the range. I have a S&W 9sdvue. 9mm. Both my son and I shot it. We both had the same experience, when we aimed high, or above the target, we hit it square. Otherwise, it was always low. It seems to both of us that the sights were off. The gun shot consistently that way. By comparison, when we shot our Ruger 100, we were on target all the time. Is it really our grip/shooting or could the sights really be off on the gun? If it is the sights, how do I fix it? -Skylar R.
Every gun’s ergonomics are different and it is entirely possible that a gun just doesn’t jive with your body’s set up and I’ve experienced it myself. There have been a couple guns that I just had trouble shooting. It has been said that once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth. Blaming the gun should always be the “whatever is left” option.
Any time someone is shooting low, I first examine their trigger technique. Jerking the trigger is a guaranteed way to shoot below point of aim. The triggers on semi-auto pistols can be a bit funky so it’s easy to start jerking them and not even realize it. Barring that, I’d look into getting a laser bore sight. There are universal ones available that you put in via the barrel. Follow the instructions, turn on the laser then aim and see if the sights line up with the dot. Keep in mind, most pistols are sighted few quite a few feet away (15-25 yards) so there might me a couple inch difference depending on where you’re aiming. If it lines up, it’s technique and you should re-examine the first tip. If it doesn’t line up, time to get your sights adjusted. Depending on your sights, you can either do it yourself or you’ll need to take it to a gunsmith.
What are your thoughts on the great platform debate for carry? Striker fired vs. double action vs. single action autos. -Steve G.
Ah, the great striker/double/single debate. Few questions have caused more forum fights and gun range arguments. To invoke this question is to bring fire and destruction upon the land. It was only a matter of time before it got asked here. Well, I guess it’s time we answered it. Hey Look! Something distracting!
Oh…you’re still here? That didn’t work, huh? Ok, well let’s do this.
All kidding aside, the best answer to this question isn’t as exciting or complicated as the flame wars would have you believe. The best one for carry is whichever one you have practiced with the most. See? I told you it was going to be a let down. There are equal amounts of arguments for and against each one. It is a perpetual stalemate. Logic would say that if there is no clear answer for one trait, look to other traits of a gun. At that point the best thing to look for is a gun you’re comfortable with. Every person is different and every situation is different. What may not be ideal for the most part may be a person’s only choice. When it comes to each, they all work fine given the majority of situations out there. There also isn’t one gun that can take care of all situations. When you tally things up, they’re all neck and neck.
Thanks for the questions!
So do you have a question burning in your mind? We answer them every Friday so send them in! It doesn’t matter what it is, as long as it’s arguably gun related we want to hear it! Head over to our Facebook or Twitter or Contact Page and send them in. See you next Friday!
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Breathing 101
Breathing is important. That’s all. End of article. Thanks for stopping by everyone! Yeah, I wasn’t expecting you to buy that one. The end of the article thing, that is, not the breathing thing. I’m not joking on that point. Breathing is what separates the dead from the living, the animate from the inanimate.
Breathing correctly, on the other hand, is an entirely different thing and I honestly have no idea why I started the article out like that. Tell you what, ignore that first paragraph. Keep breathing, of course, because you should do that and I would never suggest otherwise.
Let’s try this again. When shooting rifles, once you start going out past 100 yards everything seems to change. Little things become big things and any flaw is going to be amplified significantly. It’s that whole “a small percentage of a big number is still a big number” thing we’ve discussed in one way or another.
The further out you go, the more you’re going to have to refine your technique. When you start pushing 1000 yards, even something like your heartbeat can throw the shot completely off target. This is why you should be working on your technique even at short distances so that you don’t have to unlearn bad habits as you move further out. If the opening rambling was any indicator, one of those techniques we’re talking about today is how to properly breathe.
Manual breathing mode engaged.
Good, now that you’re paying attention to your breathing, let’s look at what happens. Your chest expands and your shoulders rise. If you are hunched over, your back will straighten a bit and if you’re prone your body will rise up off the ground. It may not be much distance but it’s enough to throw your shot off significantly, even at shorter distances.
So just hold your breath, right? Not so much. Kind of. In a way yes but not really. Holding your breath is ultimately what you do but it’s how you hold your breath that’s important. If you gulp in air like you would before diving underwater, it’s going to cause other problems. For starters, your heart is going to speed up a bit to start pushing all that new oxygen through your system. Your muscles are also going to tense up because of the expansion of your chest as well as the effort it takes to keep all that air inside. What we need to do is find a way to hold your breath that will actually relax your body.
Continue the manual breathing mode.
Try this, breathe in as normal then slowly let the air out. Do this a couple of times to gauge where the halfway point is on the exhale. Now, breathe in and exhale then pause for a moment at that halfway point. This is the ideal spot to pull the trigger of a rifle or even a pistol if you’re shooting for accuracy. At this halfway point, the body is relaxing, the heart is slowing down and it takes almost no effort to hold the remaining air in. Then it’s just a matter of accounting for heartbeat but that’s another article.
So try that out next time you’re at the range. In the meantime, go ahead and engage manual blinking mode for no other reason than because I’m being a jerk now.
“Lungs diagram simple” by Patrick J. Lynch, medical illustrator – Patrick J. Lynch, medical illustrator. Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons – http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lungs_diagram_simple.svg#mediaviewer/File:Lungs_diagram_simple.svg
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